Forty two hours of transit and what greets is stark and desolate. Isla Baltra is the gateway to the Galapogos Islands and the airport is the only structure on the desert island, a set of wind turbines rotate idly, spurred along by dry hot wind as the sun beats down on roof mounted photovoltaics. As we step out into desert heat it becomes apparent our journey isn’t quite over and we wait for the mirage of the transfer bus that takes you down to the dock. From there a ferry to Santa Cruz and then the better part of an hour to our lodge.
Having no idea what to expect, the first thing that comes to mind is shabby island chic, all sun loungers and hammocks but this ain’t no Shangri-La. And while tourists still flock to the place, there’s still a rustic charm here that other beach islands and resorts forgot decades ago.
Of course it helps when the sea lions come hang right on your deck, splaying themselves in the most inconvenient places as you try not step on one. Also, you can forget using any of the aforementioned sun loungers, they’re all taken by the sea lions.
The Iguanas also don’t mind hanging out on a sun-shiny day.
We’re only here for a few days so the agenda is maximum activities and even though we’re jetlagged and travelled out to our wit’s end we hook up with our new crew, mostly American, and we’re off to the highlands to see the giant tortoises. It all feels a little touristy as we’re escorted along the well-worn walking paths of a tortoise nature park, but the big lumbering things charm quickly.
A wander through some lava-formed caves makes for an interesting experience and all too soon we’re shuttled back to the lodge for the purgatory of fitfully jetlagged sleep.
On the agenda for day 2 is kayaking and snorkelling; bobbing about the mangroves looking for birds and water life then slipping off the boat and exploring the coast line of Santa Cruz we’re treated the antics of a fishing sea lion, at least that was what he was doing until he noticed us watching and put on a bit of a show. Being able to get so up-close and person with this guy was an amazing gift and gives the crew something to talk about on the way to Isabella, which I’m told was a pretty harrowing experience for anyone that suffers from sea sickness.
Here the shabby island chic theme is taken up a notch as Isabella is less densely populated than Santa Cruz, sand and sea washed buildings pepper the shore.
The next morning it’s a short hike up the volcano and gumboots are highly recommended if it’s been raining. Unfortunately, when we reach the caldera it’s all a bit socked in by fog and we only manage an up-close view of the volcanic rock, but the trek through the tropical scenery highlights the contrast these islands have to offer.
We’re back in the water again in the afternoon, exploring the mangroves just off shore then it’s drinks by the sea, being Asian tourists and waiting for what life brings…
Kammo.Reloaded 